Bentley's bringing a little French flavour to Shropshire..
What wine to drink as the weather hots up. Will Bentley, from Bentley's Wine Merchants has the answer...
have been watching the fires approach Bordeaux with horror, last month my friends and I were driving through those endless Gironde conifer plantations between Sauternes and Pessac. The mercury hit 42C. The next day was the hottest recorded in France. Anywhere. Ever.
We'd "enjoyed" a post-tasting bistro lunch in the village. They have no AC and specialise in cooking on an open fire, which seemed a good idea when booked in March. If we were not in quite the hottest place on the planet, we were eating in the hottest restaurant. It was punishing and for the first time in 25 years we ordered rose and put a warm St Emilion on ice.
Immolation had made heresy unavoidable in Southwest France, as opposed to the more traditional way round.
One of our number has since claimed that nothing will feel hot after those three days. Given the summer we're having I don't agree. Climate change now requires us in Shropshire to reflect seriously on rose and chillable reds.
We always have a range of pale Provence-style, Whispering Angel taste and lookalikes in the shop - just better value. Further afield Vallone and Mr Underhill's perennial favourite Ca' dei Frati make wonderful dry but fruity roses at both ends of Italy. Iberia offers Rioja Rosado and an off-dry petillant Vinha Verde Rose for only £9.99 - Mateus was popular for more than being a candle-holder. It is the perfect time to give these, or maybe Greece, a try.

We also have much more robust, food friendly options - our favourite Tavel and Sancerre's Pinot Noir pink. For the more adventurous we have an award winning Armenian dark rose made from indigenous Karmrahyut (me neither), or Le Soula's unapologetically gastronomic offering from Rousillon's highest vineyard. These are almost chillable reds.
Rose has the advantage over white in that you can drink it almost frozen and it will still taste well. Once white gets too cold you can hardly distinguish Montrachet from Pinot Grigio. Start your rose very cold and pour small glasses (it will only warm up) with regular refills.
With proper chillable reds you want to avoid tannins which become harsh when cold. Save your top cuvees for autumnal game. Our St Emilion was not ideal, but we wanted to stay local and did not have much choice - Merlot better than Cab Sauv. Otherwise in the shop our best selling £13.99 Touraine Gamay (once The Wine Merchant Magazine's "Best Value Red" of the year), any number of Beaujolais Crus, and Grenache or Cinsault from the Med can all happily be served from the fridge when the food calls for red but the thermometer disagrees.
If in doubt, drop in and ask. Stay cool & hydrated!
Published by Ludlow Guide on
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